Food Carts in Portland – the Story Behind the Icon

I will admit, I hesitate to write this article, because what could I possibly say about food carts in Portland that has not already been said?  Probably nothing, but it has been fun for me to travel down some rabbit holes, learning the history of how food carts have become synonymous with Portland.

Officially, the food cart scene blew up in 2008, during the Great Recession. Although that was 95 years after the first food cart set up moveable shop in Portland.  As you can imagine, the cart was pulled by a horse back then!

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Nostrana’s Famous Radicchio Salad

Before diving deep into what makes Nostrana’s famous radicchio salad so awesome, let me mention that Nostrana has been open for fifteen years in Portland, Oregon.  In terms of the life of a restaurant, fifteen years is pretty much forever.  Which means chef Cathy Whims is doing a few things right.  Cathy and her husband David West opened Nostrana in 2005, in the heart of the Buckman neighborhood, which encompasses the Central Eastside Industrial District.  With the coziness of the wood decor and pizza oven inside and the patio seating outside, it very much has a neighborhood bistro feel to it. 

For decades, Cathy has been a frequent traveler to Italy, where she has built friendships, strengthened her relationship to Italian cooking, and studied with the famous Marcela Hazan.  Lucky for her (and us), Italian cuisine adapts very well to the Pacific Northwest.  Mainly because they both draw on the natural bounty of the region, supporting local farmers, fisherman and ranchers.  Starting with the best ingredients and creating rustic, simple dishes, can result in some of the most complex and tastiest food.  I read a quote by her that really struck a chord, “at Nostrana, the farmers and the ingredients cultivate the menu”.

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Making Hard Cider is Not at All Hard

Fermenting apples and apple juice into hard cider carries an air of mystique amongst so many of us.  It seems like it is difficult and elusive and complicated.  I am happy to tell you it is none of those.  Although as a disclaimer, getting consistent fermentation results on a large-scale basis and running a business IS difficult and complicated.

But for the lay person, fermenting cider at home is basically like cooking.  Although instead of using the stove or oven to cook apples, you are using a glass container to house apple juice and yeast for a few months.

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What’s Russian Cuisine? Find out at Kachka

I laughed really hard when I read the introduction to Kachka chef, Bonnie Morales’ cookbook, Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking.  She tells the story of when she and her husband Israel were opening Kachka in 2013 and they interfaced with contractors, inspectors, vendors, food writers, banks, potential employees.  In short, in every discussion, once she mentioned her restaurant to be would serve food from the former Soviet Union, she was met with blank stares, long pauses and confusion.

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Why I Adore Good Salt – Portland’s Salt Shops

The short answer is because good salt makes everything taste better!  I have loved cooking since I was about two.  And for many years, traveling around and being a scratch cook, I have preached “if you give me oil, vinegar, salt and a cooking source – I can make just about anything taste good.”  Well, to my delight, a couple decades after I first said that, I happened upon Samin Nostrat’s book, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat AND Portland’s salt shops.

A friend told me about it and I sheepishly admit it took me a while to get it, because I thought to myself “yeah, I already know that, I’ve been saying and living the philosophy for years.”  Well, I am happy I got over my ego and acquired the book because it is an absolute goldmine of information.  Samin really delves into each of the elements and, I promise you, there is something to be learned no matter how long you have been aligning yourself with your allies Salt, Fat, Acid and Heat.

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What are Arepas? Find Out at Teote

Practically everyone has heard of a tortilla, but not everyone has heard of an arepa.  Not having traveled to South America, I wasn’t familiar with arepas until I ate at Teote, years ago in Portland.

It all starts with corn. Corn is important to Latin American cultures. So much so, that there are prayers and celebrations in honor of this life giving plant, which is maize in Spanish.

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So What Makes a Smaaken Waffle so Tasty Anyway?

Guess what?  There are a lot of types of waffles out there.  Because we live in a big world and people all over love waffles!  The most popular types are Dutch waffles and Belgian waffles.  But let’s not forget the American waffle, the Italian style waffle and varieties of Asian style waffles (from Hong Kong to Vietnam). 

Portland is well represented with waffles and I will admit I declared one of my favorites sometime last year.  All it took was one bite into a Smaaken Waffle and I was hooked.  When I learned that the word smaaken is Dutch for tasty, it was so obviously befitting.  In fact, Smaaken Waffle is one of my overall favorite food carts in Portland and my go to on a regular basis, even when I am not bringing people there for the Bustling Buckman Food Tour.

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What Makes Wolf and Bear’s Falafel Epic?

Wolf and Bear’s has almost a cult like following.  I know that is claiming a lot for a humble chickpea dish.  But indeed, Portlanders just go gaga over the falafel pita wraps.  Currently, Wolf and Bear’s has two food truck locations.  One on North Mississippi (between Shaver and Failing).  And the other in Pod 28, which is on SE 28th and Ankeny, on the southern end of the renown Kerns Restaurant Row.

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Get Your Israeli Street Food Fix at Shalom Y’all

Through the years, I have watched John Gorham build his Portland food empire, one delicious restaurant at a time.  His business model it interesting, as he serves different cuisines, but they all have delicious dining in common.

The John Gorham empire expands

It all started with Toro Bravo which is Spanish influenced, although not in the strictest of ways.  Tasty and Sons and Tasty and Alder soon followed.  Then Tasty and Sons morphed into Tasty and Daughters.  They are excellent brunch spots, serving upscale and creative twists on traditional items like poached eggs, and French toast.

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Portland’s Pizza of Many Origins on Restaurant Row

Pizza aficionados are very attached to their favorite type of pizza.  I grew up in NY and gorged on pizza for a couple decades, with the occasional hiatus to gorge on bagels, egg creams, and pastrami sandwiches.  So, I admittedly have a bias for New York pizza.  But when a wave of rationality sweeps over me, I am the first to admit there are other contenders for excellent styles of pizza. And Portland’s pizza is worth taking a closer look at.

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